Nerf N-STRIKE Recon Project – Day 3

Changed my mind on the Bondo – I would probably screw up a putty compound, get it places I don’t want it, and screw the whole thing up in ways that would be nearly irreversible.

My first thought was thin styrene sheets cut to size and glued over the Nerf logo. This would make a gap between the body of the gun and the styrene panel, but I don’t think it would actually look too bad. Unfortunately, I remembered the other markings – “Warning: Don’t use this toy as a weapon of mass destruction” and so on that the cover up method wouldn’t work on.

Luck set in and a friend of mine has offered to let me use his Dremel. I’d like to just have one myself, but I’m not in the mood to part with the money on something that I’m not certain I’ll be using again anytime in the next two years. I may have to buy my own sanding attachment, but that’s considerably cheaper than the tool itself. This should let me quickly (and perhaps more importantly, accurately) remove the markings.

Nerf N-STRIKE Recon Project – Days 1 and 2

Totally on a whim yesterday, I decided I was going to buy a Nerf gun – one of the really cool N-STRIKE series guns they’ve got out now – and do it up in matte black and stuff for use as a sci-fi prop gun. So I went to Wal-Mart and picked up the Recon CS-6 (the clear version, so I wouldn’t have any choice but to paint it – it’s butt ugly right now) and went off to Lowes for my other supplies.

I already had in mind what I was going to use – Krylon gray primer, Krylon flat black, some sort of olive drab (I’d know it when I saw it), and a clearcoat. Well, Lowes doesn’t carry Krylon, so I went looking for the next item on my list, an X-Acto knife, and… they don’t have those either. What the heck? All I managed to get was a roll of 1.5″ blue painter’s tape and a medium grit sanding sponge. I wasn’t sure what I was going to do with the sanding sponge, but I got it anyway.

After that I went back to Wal-Mart and went back to their paint department, where they had a few shelves of Krylon, but not a single can of black. Not flat, not satin, not gloss, nothing black whatsoever.

I went home and played with the gun a little bit. It’s actually a really cool toy, as a magazine-fed dart “rifle”.

Day 2

I took the sanding sponge to the Nerf logo on the side of the gun, since the research I’ve done on painting Nerf guns involved sanding the markings and logos down. Well, that’s pretty much an insane proposition, because I’m sanding down the surrounding area as much as I am the logo itself. I managed to get the orange paint off the Nerf logo and that’s about it, though I only spent about five minutes on it.

I went to ACE Hardware and picked up some Krylon Fusion Camouflage in ultra flat black and ultra flat olive drab green, as well as some matte finish clear coat.

After I got home, I went back to work on sanding the Nerf logos, but I gave up after about five minutes. Given enough time I could wear the logo down, but I’d wear down other stuff that I don’t want to wear down, so my next idea is Bondo. I’ll build up the surface to cover up the logo and sand it flat. I have no idea what I’m doing.

The Nerf Recon is now completely stripped to its base parts and occupying a plastic lined cardboard box. I took pictures before I removed the internals and I’m still not sure I can put the thing back together.

Razer Deathadder – Will It Up Your Game?

You want the short answer?

Too bad.

The Razer Deathadder is an ergonomic gaming mouse, molded for the right hand, but a left handed model is available. It uses an advanced infrared sensor capable of 3500 dpi sensitivity, but let’s be serious… Are you really freakish enough to use movements that small in your FPS escapades?

Well, let’s look at it this way. Before, I was using a Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical. Yes, one of those, and I had no problem with it. I’ve played Unreal Tournament, Urban Terror, Starcraft, Starcraft II, and plenty of others with this mouse.

But when, after several years the left button stopped clicking reliably, I was looking at mice – planning to replace it with the exact one I had been using – and I started hearing about gaming mice, mostly the Logitech MX518. However, Logitech just sounds… icky. I’ve used a couple of Logitech products in the past and never liked them, plus their gaming mice just look… cheap somehow.

Enter Razer. Of course Razer has been the name in gaming mice since the Boomslang came out in ’98, but I always looked down on them as silly junk peddled to gullible gamers. Somehow, though, I became too intrigued for my own good and started looking seriously at their products until finally I purchased the Deathadder. I figured I didn’t mind spending the money on a mouse that was obviously of high quality and would likely last me a few years, so I went for it.

I had heard that the Deathadder was pretty big, but the first thing I noticed when I unboxed it and plugged it in was… it’s pretty big. I was accustomed to what Razer refers to as the “claw grip” and the “fingertip grip” due to the size of the Microsoft mouse, but the Deathadder just naturally fills my entire hand. It took me a day or two, and lots of fiddling with sensitivity settings, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I really like it. I currently have it set at 1800 dpi with sensitivity set to 6.5, which I assume means it’s functioning at roughly 1170 dpi. So I’m certainly not taking advantage of the power of this fully operational battle station, but I am really enjoying the slightly increased sensitivity, the comfort of the mouse, and definitely the smoothness of its movement. (The Teflon feet on the mouse have it gliding across my bare desk – no mousepad – smooth as butter.)

So will it up your game? Maybe, maybe not. Will it be more comfortable? Well, that’s personal preference, but to me, most definitely!